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  • #16
    Originally posted by Casual_Boops View Post

    Good to see some familiar faces!

    Tony! What's up buddy!? You've been chasing that racer thing for some time now! I'm glad it's coming together for you! I've almost certainly gotten very slow, and the past few years hasn't been too kind to my waistline, so I'll have to double-check that my suit fits.

    Track bodywork for an R3 seems to be incredibly hard to come by, so I'm contemplating biting the bullet and buying some skarkskinz new and rattle-canning them into something decent looking.
    Yeah I took the class last year, got my license in the mail last week and now I have to get new number plates. I have a coworker that has been racing for awhile now who will be helping me out with setup. Should be an interesting year, planning three race weekends and a few track days.


    • #17
      Woo! Street cred!


      • #18
        Originally posted by Spoot View Post

        Very intriguing... This saves the trouble of painting. How does Hotbodies compare with Sharkskinz quality-wise?

        EDIT: I wanted upside-down forks so I snagged a 2019, which is the first year of the redesigned chassis, so these won't fit. Oh well.


        • #19
          I have used shrkskins, but my bikes have been odd-balls that no one else makes bodywork for. lol
          'Cept maybe some china OE replicas.


          • #20
            back a long time ago, Hotbodies were no where near the quality of sharkskins. I had hotbodies, they always warped bad, stuff didn't line up super great, could always make them work, but definite not as nice as sharkskins.
            Farm to Table Beef, Made Simple. Pasture Raised Beef, from our farm shipped to your door:


            • #21
              ^^^ What Helmsman said! I have had both Hotbodies and Sharkskins and the Sharkskins were WAY better quality.

              My personal opinion is that SharkSkins are the best, hands down. However I have been using Armour Bodies race bodywork and I have to say, I'm impressed. It's not as good as the SharkSkins, but just a half-a-notch behind and way better than Hotbodies. Wouldn't hurt to check them out.
              Motovid CR
              2006 Suzuki GSX-R750 (track warrior)
              2004 Ducati ST4s (road warrior)
              2009 Harley-Davidson Street Glide (Couch Potato-potato)


              • #22
                10-4 fellas. I've been out of the loop for the last 10 years so I haven't kept up with which companies have upped or downed their game in that time. Good to know Sharkskinz is still legit. Also apparently Scorpion makes helmets that aren't trash now? And Bazzaz apparently is out of the fuel controller game now, so it's all Power Commander all the time now?

                Times, they are a-changin'.

                I got a bonus from work so I'll probably just bite the pillow and buy some sharkskinz new in the next week or so. From there I'm going to have to channel my inner Spoot and attempt to rattle-can them into something that looks decent.

                Spoot, any suggestions? I know I've gotta get the coats on very light, with time in between each one. Anything else?


                • #23
                  when you take the new fairings out of the box, try to be sanitary (gloves) and go straight to paint (if they are primed).

                  You might need to lightly sand with 600 grit (This is needed if they have the white gel-coat.), then wipe with a lint-free cloth with some 90% alcohol. Let the alcohol completely dry off (maybe an hour).

                  Next (if they are primed), light spray your color in long smooth arcs - starting and ending AWAY from the fairing. Wait 5-6 min. Do again. wait.

                  Start with a light coat that actually covers the primer, but remember to keep moving. Stopping will cause a drip. Start away from fairing and move across it and end away from it.

                  Try to keep 6-10" away (depending on type\brand of paint). After second 'medium coat' you may have a small amount of primer showing through, but that's ok. Let sit 8-9 minutes (if its 70 degrees out)...longer of cooler out.

                  Now do another medium\heavy coat that covers everything - keeping your distance and keep the can moving. Change angles to cover everything.
                  Evaluate your progress. You could wait another 8-9 min and do one more medium coat.
                  Never try to do a heavy coat as that will certainly cause drips.

                  Let it completely cure for a few days. When they stop stinking, it should be cured. Dry to touch is not cured.

                  Now, if you want to do a clear-coat, you will need to gently wetsand (400 or 600 grit), clean with lint-free + small amount of alcohol...
                  Apply clear in 2 layers just like the 2 medium coats of paint. Let dry for a few days.

                  I have cheated in the past and went directly to a DupliColor clearcoat after the last paint layer, but I give the paint a few more minutes to dry as you can trap the off-gasing of the paint. You may see a white-color after applying the clearcoat - this is trapped moisture and after a week or so, the white should go away. If it's hummid out, you have a good chance of trapping moisture, too.

                  Duplicolor clearcoat isn't a clearcoat as much as it is just a spraypaint with no color in it. If you spill gas on it - it will bubble up and you can wipre the paint right off!

                  If you want an awesome clearcoat (like on the gas tank that can resist a gas-spill), you would need to complete the paint portion - completely let it cure (days), then wet-sand, wipe, dry, and use some really - really - REALLY nasty stuff = you WILL need a respirator!!

                  Sray Max 2k clear coat - like this:

                  You will get sick without a respirator - you might kill someone if you use this in your house - it is serious crap - but, it is awesome when you are done. I think I did an entire bike with 2k, but I forgot who I did it for....that gets expensive, too!.

                  For paint, I have been using DupliColor automotive paint from a car parts store.
                  If you use Krylon or something from Menards, they can shoot out a LOT more paint with one press, so be careful.


                  • #24
                    So I'm pulling the trigger on the Sharkskinz and the plan is to make it look as close to the factory paint job as possible, which is mostly black and yamaha blue (and I might add in a couple spots of Rossi yellow, because I can't help myself). So the important question is:

                    How many cans of blue do you think I'll need? 2? How many cans of the clear coat? 1 or 2? I've gotta do the whole upper, lower, tail and draft shield.


                    • #25
                      oh, to do multi-color, I just spray the accent color in the spot where you want it. let it cure.
                      go back wet-sand the accent area. cover the accent area painters tape. paint the rest of the fairing as directed.
                      wait for 10 minutes and peel the cover tape off the accent - hit the whole thing with regular clearcoat (duplicolor clear paint), covering the accent and the rest in one crack. time-saver trick....when you're in a pinch.

                      if you do the 2k clear, let everything cure for a few days and wet sand & dry before doing the 2k.

                      your first job may not be great, but YOU did it.
                      my first couple were 15ft paint jobs (looked good from 15ft away).
                      later they were 10ft jobs. <- people will say this looks good for a rattle-can job.
                      the last couple I did were 5ft jobs? <- some say they can't believe it was a rattle-can job. I still saw my mistakes.


                      • #26
                        Steve I have armourbodies now, fitment is pretty good. Super bike tail is the way to go, you’ll feel the rear tire better and what’s it doing. They are gelcoated, I didn’t prep mine right and had lots of bubbling paint. And on a side note I still drag the right side fairing like i did with Astebbs old eBay fairings 😑


                        • #27
                          I'm probably gonna be rolling out this year with plain primer fairings, and the paint will be a winter project. No sense in depriving myself of another year of track action just because it isn't pretty. That way I'll have plenty of time to screw it up over the winter and won't be in a rush.

                 to see if the suit still fits.